Shopping day

Jaipur is a beautiful city ... teeming with life and humanity. Lonely Planet refers to it as Rajasthan's dusty and dirty pink capital bombarding the senses at every turn ... the state's most polluted. Compared to the Delhi smog that you can smell, taste and almost cut with a knife, it gets an environmental A+ in my book.

After breakfast, I venture out to do some sightseeing and shopping, starting in the Old City. First order of shopping business ... salwar kameeze. My nylon cargo pants and poly-blend t-shirt, not to mention my trail shoes, blond hair, blue eyes, and backpack, though terribly comfortable, scream tourist! I obviously can't change everything, but anything will help.

The salwar kameeze is a pajama bottom with draw string waist and a short sleeve tunic top that comes to just below the knee. It's worn with a long scarf. I'd heard Jahari Bazaar is the textile place to be. Yikes, how do I pick from amongst the hundreds of stores? I had no idea. So I just kept walking and walking, finally stumbled across one that had several Indian women inside, both buying and selling, and they weren't hawking their wares. Rana's turns out to be a huge store with the most gorgeous fabrics - and they spoke perfect English. This probably was the pricier of any options I could have picked since her prices were fixed (RS3,500). But the hassle factor won out! I ordered, they measured, and I get to pick it up Tuesday morning. It's a beautiful navy washable silk with gold and silver designs.

Purchases made, I wander ... crossing the street only when I am feeling brave and next to an Indian. I'll be surprised if I come home with all my toes! They drive so close to you and so fast ... inches from your shoes, let alone the rest of your body. Keeping your elbows in takes on a whole new meaning!

But where are the women? I saw maybe only a handful for several hours ... until I reached the food market. Everywhere it was only men, children, and me. I've surprisingly felt safe here in India (cautiously so). Yes, there is a lot of staring and talking/pointing about me (not that I understand a word they're saying), and there is certainly a lot of annoying taxi's and begging. Even with the begging children (I often have a following) if they so much as touch my backpack, I snap, speak harshly, and they leave it alone right away. They do make it difficult to take a picture. Snapping on the sly is a must, otherwise they jump right into the frame and want money for their picture.

Lunch, I treat myself at the OM Tower Restaurant - an upscale revolving restaurant overlooking the city. Except if I looked too much I got sea sick ... not so good! But a delish veggie lunch, with a wonderful spinach soup. Wow, their idea of "not-spicy" could sear flesh!