Oh! Calcutta

I read an article questioning the relationship between the famed provocative show "Oh! Calcutta!!" and the real Calcutta; perhaps both reveal bare truths about mankind that we do not see otherwise. I had read there is an historical and beautiful, almost romantic, Calcutta. Yet to deny Calcutta's poverty and filth would be a great betrayal to the great city. It's a compelling city, a city with a soul, and my first few days are filled with walks through the streets, enjoying one of the richest experiences on Earth.

I meet up with some delightful Australians, Anna, from Sydney, and Martin and David, Australians who moved here 10 years ago to start a Indian tour company. And off we go experiencing the many Calcutta sensations.

Indian bathing! We westerners think of bathing as a very private activity. Indians think of it as a social event, a time to chat with their friends, catch up with the latest news. Men bath separately from the women. There's much sudsing, clothes washing, and even using the rough cement as a pumice stone on their feet. The bathing water ... well, it's wet ... but let's not forget the Calcutta Ganges is still the same Ganges water from Varanasi.

So many day-to-day market activities .........


fish sellers,

poultry sellers (yeah, another Indian bird flu opportunity),


hauling goods to market,

and flower sellers.


More Indian food discoveries ..........

Coconut juice ... whack off the top of a green coconut, pop in a straw, and there you have it.

Bitter gourd ... I've not seen this in the states. It's got a bitter, unique taste and is cooked up with some potatoes and spices.

And the delectable best ... hot Kati Rolls. These are flattened dough fried with an egg smashed in the middle, topped with some onions, lime juice, catsup and hot sauce.

Anna and I take a western Bengali cooking class taught in a lovely woman's home. She whipped up such a wonderful meal ... we eat until we can eat no more!


Where do the Indians live ...

families on the streets,

and the nicer apartments overlooking the streets.

On Christmas Eve, Anna and I join Martin and David visiting their Indian friend who is ill. Her husband died last year and she and her daughter struggle to make ends meet. They brought her some Christmas presents and we visit with her in her simple room. She proudly serves us some coca-cola and chips, and we chat about how she's doing. What a wondrous Christmas moment.

Christmas Day ... Anna and I wander about experiencing all the excitement of the city. There are families and children everywhere, enjoying the day. Christmas being neither a Hindu or Muslim holiday, it's just a regular holiday, with a plastic tree or nativity scene here and there, and lots of music blaring everywhere. Everyone is stopping by to wish us "Happy X Mas"!

Christmas dinner I dress up and wander over to a fancy hotel eating to my heart's content. Early the next morning, I call my family and have just a wonderful chat as they're enjoying their Christmas repast. A Christmas holiday like none I would ever have dreamed ... and one that I wouldn't have missed for the world.

Merry Christmas!