I've been hoodwinked
Next day I'm leaving for Delhi and there's a 5:30 pm private deluxe bus. Hotels? That's proving to be a bigger problem (everything is booked), but a kind Indian traveler (obviously very well-to-do) says his son will get me a room. Sure enough, after many hours, he does!
And while I'm waiting, I take in the two main Hardiwar temples. These are on opposing hills surrounding Hardiwar and are reached with a cable car.
Both are small temples, but seemingly very important given the number of worshippers. And the views to the top, complete with cavorting monkeys, is once again ... gorgeous!
Whew, I've been up for several hours and I'm exhausted. I make it to the bus station and settle in for a six hour ride.
Not so fast there! A couple hours into the ride, lights dimmed, everyone asleep (including me) and I awaken to some noise. I was sound asleep and it takes a moment to register what's happening - someone a couple rows back is hurling on the bus floor and it's rolling my way. Ya know, you gotta just love India ... you see every part of life, the good, the bad, the ugly! I whip my daypack off the floor, cover up my nose with my scarf ... and listen to a busload of very agitated Indians. The bus driver stops, gets sand from the side of the road and presto ... all covered up.
Delhi arrives and I get a rickshaw ... heavens-to-betsy! Let me describe the two scenarios for you!
First my initial impressions!
Madam, that road is closed after 10 pm ... your hotel is closed after 10 pm, unless you have a reservation. I do! But, Madam, you still can't get there. No problem, I assertively walk over to a phone and call. NO, NO, NO, NO !!! I even surprised myself with the expletives frothing out of my mouth (sailors would be proud). No one told the night manager that I was arriving, he had given away my room, and no way was he going to let me get a room.
With that news, I must subject myself to another rickshaw hotel - horridly expensive for what you get, but at least it was clean with hot water.
Morning comes and I call the Jukaso Inn manager. They inquire why I did not arrive last night ... I'm confused, but I switch hotels. Much nicer and a bit cheaper.
Now for what-really-happened scenario!
I was pretty comfortable with the traditional scams ... the road is closed, the hotel is closed, the hotel has burned down. Which is why I went with the phone! Except the rickshaw drivers were in cahoots with the phone folks. When I "placed" my call they re-routed it to their number, playing the role of the night manager. They knew enough info from my asking them to take me to the hotel. I called several other places as well, but there was one fellow looking over my shoulder at the Lonely Planet and he was able to relay enough to his cohorts in Hindi to make it plausible. They even had a different person answering each number, so the voices sounded different.
After talking with the Jukaso Inn manager, he said that I should have looked at the phone tape showing the number actually connected ... and always have them drive to the hotel, even if (worst case) you pay for a longer rickshaw drive. Well, that's a lesson learned!
It turns out the driver got 50% of my night's tarriff ... big payoff for them! But I must say, if I'm going to be conned ... I want it to be a good con ... and this one was good! I've not met anyone (Indian or foreigner) who's heard of a scam like this one!
With all that to-do, I wander over to the Oberoi and have the most wonderful breakfast ... western sanitized and seasoned food. Back to the tummy theme ... I still feel lousy, tired, and sick of toilets ... I spend a good part of the day googling Delhi belly. What on earth is wrong with me? Shall I summarize politely by saying my gastro-intestinal flora is not well! I've not been able to eat more than just a couple of small bites without feeling ill. I've not hit the antibiotics yet, since I have no fever, but it apears that should be a quick cure! If I'm not better by tomorrow, Cipro it is!
And between bouts of internet, bouts of sleeping, I curl up for the evening!
And while I'm waiting, I take in the two main Hardiwar temples. These are on opposing hills surrounding Hardiwar and are reached with a cable car.
Both are small temples, but seemingly very important given the number of worshippers. And the views to the top, complete with cavorting monkeys, is once again ... gorgeous!
Whew, I've been up for several hours and I'm exhausted. I make it to the bus station and settle in for a six hour ride.
Not so fast there! A couple hours into the ride, lights dimmed, everyone asleep (including me) and I awaken to some noise. I was sound asleep and it takes a moment to register what's happening - someone a couple rows back is hurling on the bus floor and it's rolling my way. Ya know, you gotta just love India ... you see every part of life, the good, the bad, the ugly! I whip my daypack off the floor, cover up my nose with my scarf ... and listen to a busload of very agitated Indians. The bus driver stops, gets sand from the side of the road and presto ... all covered up.
Delhi arrives and I get a rickshaw ... heavens-to-betsy! Let me describe the two scenarios for you!
First my initial impressions!
Madam, that road is closed after 10 pm ... your hotel is closed after 10 pm, unless you have a reservation. I do! But, Madam, you still can't get there. No problem, I assertively walk over to a phone and call. NO, NO, NO, NO !!! I even surprised myself with the expletives frothing out of my mouth (sailors would be proud). No one told the night manager that I was arriving, he had given away my room, and no way was he going to let me get a room.
With that news, I must subject myself to another rickshaw hotel - horridly expensive for what you get, but at least it was clean with hot water.
Morning comes and I call the Jukaso Inn manager. They inquire why I did not arrive last night ... I'm confused, but I switch hotels. Much nicer and a bit cheaper.
Now for what-really-happened scenario!
I was pretty comfortable with the traditional scams ... the road is closed, the hotel is closed, the hotel has burned down. Which is why I went with the phone! Except the rickshaw drivers were in cahoots with the phone folks. When I "placed" my call they re-routed it to their number, playing the role of the night manager. They knew enough info from my asking them to take me to the hotel. I called several other places as well, but there was one fellow looking over my shoulder at the Lonely Planet and he was able to relay enough to his cohorts in Hindi to make it plausible. They even had a different person answering each number, so the voices sounded different.
After talking with the Jukaso Inn manager, he said that I should have looked at the phone tape showing the number actually connected ... and always have them drive to the hotel, even if (worst case) you pay for a longer rickshaw drive. Well, that's a lesson learned!
It turns out the driver got 50% of my night's tarriff ... big payoff for them! But I must say, if I'm going to be conned ... I want it to be a good con ... and this one was good! I've not met anyone (Indian or foreigner) who's heard of a scam like this one!
With all that to-do, I wander over to the Oberoi and have the most wonderful breakfast ... western sanitized and seasoned food. Back to the tummy theme ... I still feel lousy, tired, and sick of toilets ... I spend a good part of the day googling Delhi belly. What on earth is wrong with me? Shall I summarize politely by saying my gastro-intestinal flora is not well! I've not been able to eat more than just a couple of small bites without feeling ill. I've not hit the antibiotics yet, since I have no fever, but it apears that should be a quick cure! If I'm not better by tomorrow, Cipro it is!
And between bouts of internet, bouts of sleeping, I curl up for the evening!
posted by CECILIA at 6:23 PM
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